By Dan Malloy & Jill Dumain
Industrial Hemp is a crop that has the potential to lower the environmental impacts of textile production, empower small-scale farmers and create jobs in a wide variety of industries. Two non-profit groups, Fibershed and Growing Warriors, are working to reintroduce Industrial Hemp into Kentucky—and eventually U.S. agriculture. Dan Malloy and a small film crew from Patagonia paid a visit to farmer and military veteran Michael Lewis to see how it was going.
Above: Watch our new short film, Harvesting Liberty. Video: Patagonia
On July 4, 2016, a petition will be delivered urging Congress to pass the Industrial Hemp Farming Act of 2015/2016 (S.134 and H.R. 525) legalizing the cultivation of industrial hemp in the United States. We invite you to learn more and take action at the National Hemp Association
Reconnecting Through Agriculture
By Dan Malloy
Ten years ago, just before a 17-hour flight to Indonesia, I stood in front of a giant wall of magazines searching for something worthwhile to read. Glistening nether regions, outrageous headlines, sugar-coated treats and self-help tips dominated my field of view. Stuffed in the back, however, in a negative space that drew me towards it, was a slim black and white periodical with no advertising called The Sun.
In it was an interview with author and farmer Wendell Berry and what would become the impetus for our new short film, Harvesting Liberty. Mr. Berry explained clearly that industrialized agriculture has inflicted “a kind of cultural amnesia” on our society. In other words, the chasm that has been created between the people raising our food, and us (the ones eating it) is doing more damage than we are capable of quantifying.
It is safe to say that Mr. Berry and his cohorts (Jackson, Shiva, Snyder to name just a few) have changed how I see my place in this world. They have challenged me to, as Snyder said, “Find your place on the planet. Dig in, and take responsibility from there.”
I now view the deliberate participation in healthy food-and-fiber systems as engaged activism that requires less fighting against and more working for—same goals, by the way, just less bureaucracy.
In our new short film, Harvesting Liberty, we had the amazing opportunity to document the work and vision of Michael Lewis and Rebecca Burgess, two folks who have dedicated their lives to reestablishing meaningful connections to their communities and the natural world through agriculture.
I owe a deep debt of gratitude to Rebecca Burgess for inviting us on her journey and for introducing us to the forward-thinking visionary redneck Michael Lewis. I’d also like to thank the Lewis family for welcoming us (and our cameras) into their home in the midst of raising a family, farming and finishing college.
“I remember thinking I’ve gotta do everything I can to get out of here,” said Michael Lewis about growing up on a small farm. Today, shown here with his son Roscoe, he’s planting roots once again with a renewed sense of purpose and pride. Photo: Donnie Hedden
A collaboration between St. Catharine College and The Berry Center has resulted in a degree in Sustainable Farming and Ecological Agrarianism. St Catharine College has been granted permission by the Federal Government through the Farm Bill Act to research and cultivate industrial hemp. Harvesting Liberty’s protagonist, Michael Lewis is a graduate of this program. Photo: Donnie Hedden
Taking the edge off the seriousness of making a documentary is often a necessity and reflective of a good crew. Kellen Keene (left) and Todd Hannigan (right) have perfected the balance of work and play. Photo: Donnie Hedden
Patagonia’s grant to Fibershed made it possible for Michael Lewis and Growing Warriors to build a decorticator so enabling them process their hemp crop on the farm. The blueprints for this machine were taken from a patented Thomas Jefferson design. Photo: Donnie Hedden
This team, coordinated by Rebecca Burgess of Fibershed, was responsible for the creation of the flag. From left to right: Deborah Kreikel hand-embroidered the stars, Elizabeth Smith spun the hemp, Stephanie Seal Brown weaved and Kacie Lynn hand-dyed the organic cotton. Photo: Donnie Hedden
“It is a great honor knowing that Patagonia’s grant is helping to nudge along the work of folks with such ability and vision,” says Harvesting Liberty director and Patagonia employee, Dan Malloy. “I believe it is this kind of work that will bring the ecologic, economic and cultural renewal that our country so desperately needs.” Rebecca Burgess, the founder of Fibershed, holds the other side of the flag. Fibershed was responsible for equipping Michael Lewis and Growing Warriors with the resources to build the decorticator used to process hemp fiber in the field. Photo: Donnie Hedden
Patagonia’s Hemp Origins
By Jill Dumain
The year was 1993 when Yvon became interested in hemp. He remembered seeing Japanese hemp kimonos that had survived many years and wanted to bring that longevity into the Patagonia sportswear line. Thus began a long search for a hemp supplier that led me around the world because we couldn’t then, and still can’t, grow hemp in the United States.
It started with phone calls (no Google back then). Some of the first calls were to hemp advocates in the U.S. but they usually digressed into reminiscing about the Haight district in the ‘60s. I didn’t have much to add to those conversations since I was a baby in Southern California during those years, so I moved on in my search.
Eventually, we found someone who was traveling to China to source hemp. I happily prepared all sorts of swatches for a meeting so he could source the fabrics on my behalf. However, our CEO at the time, Kris Tompkins, had a different plan. She looked at me across the table and said, “Jill, you need to go on that trip.”
And so it was that I found myself in an old van traveling to extremely rural textile mills in China hoping to find the preverbal needle in a haystack. We saw many a handful of mills and learned a few interesting facts. For example, hemp had been found in burial chambers dating back to 1122 B.C. during the Chou Dynasty. And though I traded many, many business cards on that trip I went home empty handed.
Then, about two months later, I received a small package in the mail. Inside were some very rough samples of undyed fabrics that had the potential to become something beautiful. More trips followed and we ended up being the first U.S. visitors to this particular mill, Hemp Fortex, in Jincheng, China and their hemp fields in Shanxi Province. As it happens, that one small package began a long relationship with a mill that still supplies our hemp to this day.
It’s exciting to think that, similar to the small package Jill received from China, this short film might signify the possibility of another hemp supply chain for Patagonia. But we need your help. If you agree that it’s time to allow American farmers to grow industrial hemp once again, please sign this petition from the National Hemp Association.
Dan Malloy is the director of Harvesting Liberty, a Patagonia ambassador and one of the most respected figures in professional surfing. Living with his wife near Lompoc, he’s a believer in the self-sufficient, well-rounded life, with farming and ranching keeping his hands busy between surf sessions.
Jill Dumain is the Director Environmental Strategy for Patagonia. Formerly the Director of Fabric Development, she led the switch to organic cotton in Patagonia’s products and sourced the fiber for the company’s first hemp products.